We didn't summit Everest or get an audience with His Majesty the King.
We just SHUT OFF THAT DAMNED MUSIC.
If you've been here, you cannot have escaped it: the cheesy keyboard-inflated chanting of the sacred Buddhist manta, "Om mani padme hum" (hail to the jewel in the heart of the lotus).
Of course, the mantra is fine. It's the horrific saccharine music that drives everyone nuts - plus, the fact that the recording goes on for some forty minutes.
We were on our way to get the best yogurt shake in the whole world (at Just Juice n Shakes, Thamel) when the neighboring music shop started the dreaded tune.
Somebody, sometime, somewhere must have told them that "tourists like this..." either that, or they genuinely like it themselves, which a) I find hard to believe and b) is possibly even more frightening than the idea that tourists are supposed to like it.
"Oh no, are they starting that music?" said the normally very mild-mannered Caitlin.
"Maybe we can get them to shut it off."
"NO WAY, they lovvvvve it.....they play that crap all day long! Over and over!"
The girls were not to be dissuaded. "Can you change the music?" Caitlin asked.
"Turn the music up? Okay, " said the guy, not listening, and tried to increase the volume.
"NO, NO, we just want you to turn the music OFF."
"Yes, that music. We don't like this music. We HATE this music. Please play some other music."
Finally the guy handed Caitlin the remote control. Here she is victoriously switching off the hated sounds:
...and here are the girls following their audio victory...and the best yogurt shake in the world.